Discover the Unique Flavors of Hong-eo: Why You Must Try This Delicacy at the Yeongsanpo Festival 2026

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Those who know hongeo well like to say “one nose, two wings,” but if you ask me, the real star is the samhap—the perfect trio. A sliver of three-year-old kimchi, a slice of boiled pork, and a thin piece of hongeo dipped in spicy soy—wrap them together and the sharp, sinus-clearing kick pairs perfectly with another pour of makgeolli. Hongeo is meant to stun your nose; that’s the point. A single plate disappears before you know it. The more it ages, the deeper the flavor—pure, lingering satisfaction. It’s the kind of taste that turns a simple snack into a memory you savor for years. Even a plow horse might pause for a juicy bite, nostrils flaring as if remembering something sweet.

Nothing of the skate goes to waste. The snout and wings are eaten raw as hoe (sashimi), and the cartilage—famous for helping against osteoporosis—makes a sublime steamed dish. The skate liver, or aeguk, is already tasty with a pinch of salt, but simmer it with doenjang and early-spring mugwort (aebori) and you get an unforgettable broth: hongeo aeguk. Decades later, that flavor still sits in my memory as the true taste of home.

Eat aeguk carefully. The strong ammonia burst that hits the nose and slides down the throat can trigger an explosive sneeze. Those who know how to enjoy it first bring the hot steam to their nose, swallow gently, then lift the spoon slowly. Mugwort aeguk is a spring favorite—made with freshly sprouted mugwort, it and barley aeguk were once the season’s top treats on South Jeolla tables. Skate liver is high in protein and low in fat, great for helping the liver recover after a night of drinking, and its unsaturated fats are good for heart health. It’s even said to help prevent osteoporosis in women. If your stomach is sensitive, though, opt for fresh skate rather than heavily fermented varieties.

Every May, Yeongsanpo in Naju—often called the holy ground of hongeo—hosts a festival pairing Heuksando skate with Naju hanwoo beef. When rapeseed and poppies bloom along the Yeongsan River, fans flock from across the country. For many, it’s a rare chance to taste prized Heuksando hongeo and local hanwoo at great value. This year, Naju city, which runs the event, pledged to work with local merchants to stamp out the usual tourist overcharging. Officials say they’ll showcase the region’s famed warm hospitality—sharp and lively like a bite of hongeo—to remind everyone that Yeongsanpo is the skate’s true hometown.

There’s a saying: “Generosity comes from the pantry.” That’s South Jeolla food culture in a nutshell. If something’s running low, they just keep serving. Price tags don’t matter. “Here, have some more,” they’ll say—and hand you another helping. That generous spirit, mixed with expert hands, is why South Jeolla cuisine is beloved by food lovers everywhere.

This year’s festival runs May 22–24. I’m planning a trip back to my hometown, Yeongsanpo. I’ll stop for a bowl of Naju beef soup on the way and treat myself to a slice of hongeo. I remember my father, who loved hongeo—one piece, a cup of makgeolli, a quick wipe of his mouth with the back of his hand, and off he’d go to the fields with a steady stride. “Father, when the rapeseed blooms in May, ride the clouds to the Yeongsanpo Hongeo Festival. I’ll have a salted Heuksando skate ready for you,” I’d whisper.

Kim Jae-nam (poet)